Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp 2012 Early Booking Discount by January 1, 2012 - $525.00 per person

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Approach to landing at Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp

Climber flight price includes Base Camp Fee, free sleds, ample gear storage and sorting area, one night at a comfortable hostel before and after your climb, van shuttle service in and around Talkeetna, and wi-fi availability.

It is best to book before January 1, 2012 for the 2012 Climbing Season to get the best rates in Talkeetna at $525.00 per climber round trip.

A.K.A. Kahiltna International Airport, the base camp for attempts to reach the summit of Denali, Kahiltna Glacier is the busiest airstrip on the mountain.

J. BondurantBase Camp at Kalhiltna

The southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier is primarily where climbers go to climb Mt. McKinley.

During the climbing season there can be as many as 200 people at the Base Camp waiting to climb or fly out. It is quite a colorful view to see 100 tents all set up and occupied by people from around the World.

The glacier landing area is about 2 miles long and 1 mile wide. There are several areas where crevasses open up into an abyss potentially thousands of feet deep.

A three degree down-slope is essential for take-off downhill. Snow, rock and icefalls towers 7000’ high and 1200’ wide from the landing area. More than once an avalanche has covered the landing area.

The Kahiltna Glacier is 7200’ above sea level and is a 36-mile-long (58 km) glacier of the Alaska Range in the U.S. state of Alaska. It starts on the southwest slope of Mount McKinley near Kahiltna Pass (elevation 10,320 ft/3146 m). Its main channel runs almost due south between Mount Foraker to the west and Mount Hunter to the east.

Mt. McKinley/Denali Routes:

The West Buttress (63.06920°N / 151.0036°W) is the standard route climbers take to summit Denali and it provides access to the popular, but more technical, West Rib and Cassin Ridge routes.  The West Buttress has been derided as “the Denali Iditarod”, “the Scenic Loop”, and “the Handicapped Access Ramp”. Although there are no technically difficult sections on the route, many stretches of “The Butt” leave very little margin for error. Furthermore, the West Buttress is just as exposed as any other route to McKinley's legendary weather. Prospective climbers should be highly competent in travel on moderately steep snow/ice slopes and exposed traverses. Denali’s unusually high casualty list is due in large part to inexperienced or exhausted climbers tripping on a crampon tip and falling off seemingly easy snow/ice slopes.

The most popular camps are located at 7,200 ft (base camp); 7,800 ft; 9,500 ft; 11,000 ft; 14,200 ft; and 17,200 ft, some of which are equipped with latrines. Other camps are located at 12,500 ft and 16,000 ft, but should only be used under ideal weather conditions as the 12,500 ft camp is vulnerable to avalanches and the 16,000 ft camp is very exposed to high winds. The 11,000 ft camp also experiences avalanches and serac fall, and care should be taken to avoid these two hazards when setting up camp. Above 14,200 ft, snow caves or igloos are usually constructed as a back up shelter in case bad weather moves in.

Total horizontal length of the West Buttress route is approximately 13 miles with about 13,500 ft of vertical gain. Between base camp and 11,000 ft, the route is relatively flat and the main hazards are crevasse falls. Above 11,000 ft, the route steepens to moderate slopes (35-45 degrees) alternating with flat benches and bowls. Equipment and supplies are typically carried by sled to 11,000 ft. Above 11,000 ft, gear and food are usually ferried between camps in two trips.

West Buttress expeditions average around 16-17 days, but climbers should take at least 3 weeks of supplies. A 2-3 day supply of food and fuel should be left at base camp in case weather prevents planes from landing on the glacier (climbers have been stranded for as long as 2 weeks due to inclement weather). The following is a sample West Buttress itinerary:

Day 1: Land at Base Camp
Day 2: Rest day to organize gear and practice crevasse rescue
Day 3: Move to 7,800 ft camp
Day 4: Move to 9,500 ft camp
Day 5: Move to 11,000 ft camp
Day 6: Rest day
Day 7: Ferry loads to 14,200 ft camp, return to 11,000 ft camp
Day 8: Move to 14,200 ft camp
Day 9: Rest day
Day 10: Ferry loads to 17,200 ft camp, return to 14,200 ft
Day 11: Rest day
Day 12: Move to 17,200 ft camp
Day 13: Summit day
Day 14: Descend to 11,000 ft camp
Day 15: Descend to base camp, fly out

The West Rib (50.73750°N / 115.08056°W) route access if provided from the West Butress.  For some Denali afficionados, the WEST RIB is the next step after completing the West Buttress or Karstens Ridge, but it represents a pretty big step up in skill and experience. The route involves moderate to steep snow as well as mixed snow and rock. Like the West Buttress, many climbers underestimate the West Rib and most of its accidents are attributed to inexperience or overconfidence. Many perceive the West Rib as tame because it is relatively easy to retreat from if they find themselves in over their heads. This does not mean that the climbing itself is easy.

The Cassin Ridge (63.01261°N / 150.83679°W) route access is also provided from the West Butress. Climbers completing the CASSIN RIDGE find themselves in a small fraternity of elite Alaska climbers. The route ascends the prominent ridge on the 8,000 foot south face that ends a few hundred yards west of the summit. It is steep, demanding, and committing. As a result, frivolous accidents are rare on the Cassin Ridge because only the most experienced climbers will think of attempting it.

Traverse route - North to South side:  The Mt. McKinley and Traverse Climb is a unique challenge to climb the highest peak in North America while traveling over the crest of the Alaska Range. The team will ascend Mt. McKinley via the West Buttress and descend the Karstens Ridge route. Both routes involve snow and ice climbing of slopes of up to 45 degrees and extensive glacier travel. A traverse on Mt. McKinley is a tremendous challenge for people that have the depth of mountaineering experience and attitude to enjoy the rigors of expedition life. The Mt. McKinley Traverse Climb is a very difficult, high altitude, cold climb suited for the few individuals that have the background and drive to find this a challenge they will enjoy. To be eligible participants must be in excellent physical condition, must have climbed numerous mountaineering routes that require roped travel, winter snow camping and the competent use of an ice axe and crampons. Knots must be second nature and all team members must have a firm understanding of belaying and using fixed line. It is important that each person is experienced in executing an ice axe self arrest . You must be able to climb in balance with a heavy pack ,while wearing crampons in variable snow conditions. Applicants must have a depth of climbing experience that shows that they are well within their capability to carry very heavy packs on steep exposed slopes. Team members must be well versed in snow camping skills and be able to be efficient and helpful in camp.

Mount Hunter

Mt. Hunter Routes:

Towering 7000 feet above the Kahiltna Glacier, Mt Hunter is the steepest and most technical of the three great peaks in Denali National Park. Like Denali and Foraker, Mt. Hunter has a north summit, (14,573 feet) and south summit (13,966 feet). With the status of being the hardest 14,000 foot mountain in North America, few people attempt the climb and less than 40% typically succeed. Gaining the higher north peak is difficult by any route and requires the utmost in stamina, fortitude, and perseverance. We will attempt to climb the West Ridge with a combination of expedition and alpine climbing strategies. Our route will gain the West Ridge by the Northwest Basin variation.

West Ridge: (63.06989°N / 151.073°W) Although not technically the easiest route to the summit, the West Ridge was chosen the first ascent route and is considered the standard route to the summit.  The route and the mountain are a serious undertaking, considered much harder than its two higher neighbors. The climb is classically Alaskan, presenting a variety of climbing types. Offering rock, mixed, ice, and dazzling corniced ridge climbing, the route is constantly thought provoking. And unlike many climbs in the range, there is no easy way down. The climb gets attempted about a half-dozen times each season. The success rate varies dramatically with the year’s snow conditions. The mountain has in the past gone several years in a row without a successful ascent.

 North Buttress: (N 62° 59.108' W 150° 53.174')The North Buttress is the technical showpiece on Mount Hunter and like the Infinite Spur and the Cassin, it is considered a world class climbing objective. Although it has been called “The Nose” of the Alaska Range, climbers coming to find a similar type route up Mount Hunter will be quite surprised. The sheer 4,000-foot granite buttress replete with difficult ice, rock, mixed, and aid climbing has less than 20 ascents to the top of the buttress and far fewer to the true summit. For even the world’s best climbers, an ascent is a career defining achievement.

Other Mount Hunter technical climbs include Rattle & Hum, Deprivation and Moonflower.

Mt. Foraker Routes:

Mt. Foraker is the sixth highest peak in North America. Like Denali and Mount Hunter, it has a north and south summit, separated by a half-mile-wide plateau. The smaller, seldom climbed South Summit is 16,812 feet high. The mountain stands ten miles west of Mount Hunter and fifteen miles southwest of Denali. The average number of climbers each year has been under 50, as on Mount Hunter, or one thirtieth of the traffic on Denali. However, the failure rate on this peak is much higher than on it's neighbors. The easily approached Southeast Ridge accounts for most of the attempts on Mount Foraker, but the Sultana Ridge is a safer, easier climb. There are many routes that have not been ascended alpine style, but they all involve either long approaches, or long and committing ridge climbs.

Infinite Spur: (63.06920°N / 151.0036°W) The Infinite Spur is Alaska’s ultimate test-piece and one of the world’s finest alpine challenges. This aesthetic arête soars nearly nine thousand feet directly up the south face of the second highest mountain in the range, providing a uniquely safe passage up a wall of total chaos. The extended length and extreme commitment required make this route a formidable and intimidating endeavor. However, the rewards of climbing such a perfect line on this incredibly complex mountain are immeasurable. This route has been a distinguishing highlight in the lives of each alpinist that has completed it.

Sultana Ridge:  (N 62° 59' W 150° 55) The Sultana Ridge of Mount Foraker is perhaps the most pure and scenic ridge climb in the Alaska Range. The seven-mile ridge undulates endlessly as it climbs over several smaller peaks along the way to Foraker’s massive summit. After ascending the first peak, Mount Crosson, the ridge comprises the crest of the Alaska Range. The left side pours its ice into the Kahiltna Glacier, which runs south, eventually ending up in Cook Inlet. The right side heads to the great tundra of the north, eventually feeding the mighty Yukon River, which deposits into the Bering Sea. The Sultana ridge is a good alternative to the busy West Buttress of Denali. The climbing is similar in difficulty, but retreat is more difficult, camps more exposed, and there is no support network on the route. For this, you will be rewarded by a true feeling of remoteness and serenity. It is not uncommon to have the entire route to yourself.

Other Mount Foraker routes include Talkeetna Ridge, French Ridge and Southeast Ridge.

Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna is access for:

Kahiltna Queen: Kahiltna Queen (12,380’) often gets overlooked, standing amidst its more famous neighbors of Mount Hunter, Mount Huntington, and the South Buttress of Denali. But it is very significant, being the triple divide peak of three of the greatest glaciers in the range: the Kahiltna, the Ruth, and the Tokositna. It is only at this summit that all three of these glaciers meet simultaneously. It is similarly shaped to Mount Huntington and slightly taller, but its summit does not rise as far above its connecting ridges, giving it less overall prominence. Kahiltna Queen’s East Ridge actually goes on to become Mount Huntington’s Northwest Ridge. The peak was originally given the name Humble Peak in 1977 by its first ascensionist but because of its commanding position as viewed from Base Camp it is now more commonly referred to as Kahiltna Queen.

Mt. Francis: (N 61.041667 and W -146.206111) Mount Frances’ rocky hulk sits immediately north of the Kahiltna Base Camp. Over a thousand climbers each year walk right around this peak without even giving it a thought. But this multifaceted satellite peak of Denali’s South Buttress holds some quality routes. The peak’s central location on the Kahiltna Glacier makes the views from its flanks and summit incredible. The summit is the best place to view all three of the Alaska Range giants from one location. As with many of the moderate routes around Base Camp, the Southwest Ridge of Mount Frances has been long overlooked by climbers more focused on the bigger peaks. It’s quite unfortunate because this long and fun mixed climb is a superb alpine challenge, similar in character to the more wellknown Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300. Mount Frances is nearly as long but overall not as sustained or committing. The individual rock cruxes on Mount Frances however are more challenging than those on 11,300. Given its proximity to Kahiltna Base Camp, this route is destined to become a very popular objective and range classic.

Control Tower: The Radio Control Tower has been called the perfect mini-alpine climb by AAI guides. From Denali Base Camp, the climb is doable in one long day. The route itself involves an approach of a few miles on (on skis or snowshoes), and then builds into increasingly exciting climbing along a narrow ridge crest. This crest leads to a small summit, from which you look directly into the imposing North Face of Mount Hunter and to the Kahiltna Peaks below Denali's South Face. On a week-long trip to the Kahiltna aea, climbers can combine this climb with Mount Frances for two stellar Alaska summits in a fairly short time frame, weather permitting.

Kahiltna Dome: (N 63.055 and W -151.236389) The Kahiltna Dome sits above Kahiltna Pass on Denali's West Buttress Route. From Denali Base Camp we follow the West Buttress Route to a point below Kahiltna Pass, at which point we climb to a broad and heavily glaciated ridge. We'll make a high camp here before attempting to reach the summit. Grand views are granted from the summit, and we look directly at the west side of Denali, the Kahiltna Peaks, and back to Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter above Denali Base Camp.

Mount Crosson:  (N 63.008333 and W -151.2725) Mount Crosson sits directly across the Main Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier from Denali Base Camp. Even though Crosson is somewhat dwarfed by its neighbors (Foraker, Hunter, Denali), a climb of this peak offers almost 6000 feet of climbing on moderate ground to reach the summit. Crosson's position between the three largest peaks in the range offer climbers some of the best panoramas of Denali, Hunter, and Foraker in the area. The Southeast Ridge gets a lot of sun and can be subject to temperature gradient snow conditions. As such, climbs of Crosson should take place early in the season, typically April - May.
 

Mount McKinley is located in the subpolar low, a region where arctic air moving from the north converges with warmer air moving from the south at a latitude of 60 degrees (Denali is located at 63 degrees). This convergence creates a belt of unstable weather at this latitude. Associated with the subpolar low is a semi-permanent area of low pressure known as the Aleutian Low, located in the vicinity of the Aleutian Islands. Weather systems generated or passing through the Aleutian Low often take a straight path for the Alaska Ranges and hit Mt. McKinley with little warning. Mt. McKinley also has a reputation for streaky weather with long periods of continuous bad weather or more rarely, long periods of good weather. This explains why inexperienced, clueless climbers may reach the summit while veteran climbers die on its slopes.

As a result of its proximity to the Aleutian Low, the weather on Denali is unlike the weather on any other major mountain in the world. Extreme cold is another hallmark of Denali’s weather and temperatures routinely fall to -40 F (-40 C). Unfamiliarity with McKinley’s weather is an underlying cause of many accidents, particularly among climbers who view the mountain as “just another prize in the trophy case” or as a warm-up for Mt. Everest. Weather patterns generally fall under the following categories:

HIGH WINDS. Mt. McKinley undergoes long periods of clear skies and high winds, and these conditions are most often seen during early part of the climbing season (April and May). During these periods, many of the mountain slopes are swept clean of snow leaving behind solid blue ice and testing the cramponing skills of even the most experienced climbers. Denali Pass and the upper part of the West Rib are especially notorious sites for accidents when these conditions occur.

During such weather, many climbers are lulled by the clear skies into going for the summit. However, these winds routinely exceed 100 mph and have been known to pick climbers up and throw them down the slopes. Windstorms often come with little if any warning and are thus amongst the most feared weather patterns on the mountain. The first signs of increasing high winds are the appearance of lenticular cloud caps over the summit. Many of the accidents in 1992, Denali’s deadliest year, occurred during such a weather pattern.

LOW PRESSURE SYSTEMS FROM THE GULF OF ALASKA. These are the cyclonic weather systems that sweep in from the southwest and vary in intensity, the strongest of which have been described as hurricanes that dump snow. During the more powerful storms, it is generally unsafe to be above 14,000 feet. Fortunately, climbers usually have at least 12 hours warning before such a storm hits and the park service does a good job of informing those who don’t heed the mare’s tails in the sky. Such a weather system was responsible for the single deadliest accident on the mountain which claimed the lives of seven climbers on the Karstens Ridge route in 1967.

LOW LEVEL MOISTURE. This occurs when warm, moist air migrates inland from the Pacific Ocean and creates a period of steady drizzle in the lowlands. During these periods, the top of the cloud layer occurs between 10,000 and 14,000 feet and conditions above these altitudes may be quite good. At other times, skies above 14,000 feet will be clear, but windy. Conditions on the lower mountain, however, tend to get sloppy and may even experience periods of rainfall and whiteout.

“GOOD WEATHER”. Days in which there is not a cloud in the sky and not a breath of wind are rare on Mt. McKinley. Instead, good weather is when winds are blowing at less than 10 knots and precipitation is limited to a snow squall here and there. Many amateurs unfamiliar with Denali’s weather may misinterpret this kind of weather as marginal or a prelude to a big storm.

One should not think that from these descriptions, weather on Denali will easily fall into one of the above four categories. Instead, the distinctions between these four patterns fall into a thousand different shades of gray. Other weather patterns occur that do not fall into these categories. For example, low pressure systems may descend from the north from the Arctic Ocean. Because these storms approach from the north, they may catch climbers on the West Buttress by surprise. Even the most experienced veterans have a difficult time forecasting the weather, but for amateurs unfamiliar with subpolar weather, reading Denali’s weather can be more akin to rolling the dice.

Pilot Notes:

Landing as the Kalhitna Glacier Base Camp is routine for the Sheldon Air Service pilots.

If you want to see the mountain climbing community at its finest, add a glacier landing to your flightseeing tour to Kalhitna base camp during mountain climbing season during the spring and early summer months.

Destination Rate: $555.00

Lat/Long: 62.967248,-151.170927

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